Hip, fun, cool ingredients are popping up in the skincare industry! Some may be passing fads, while others prove they can go the distance. Research is still in its infancy for many of these products, so use caution when splurging.

Argireline – Argireline’s generic name is acetyl hexapeptide-3 or acetyl hexapeptide-8 (quite the mouthful!). Lipotec, the manufacturers of Argireline, claim its peptides are able to inhibit the neurotransmitters that control small facial movements, and thus, reduce wrinkles.

• Prominent products

  • The Ordinary Argireline Solution 10%

Bakuchiol – Often referred to as “nature’s retinol,” bakuchiol has been said to have similar youth-boosting properties as retinoids, but in a gentler, less irritating form. We dive into if bakuchiol is really a natural retinol alternative. It is found in the plant Psoralea corylifolia (also known as Babchi) and has long been used in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine to treat skin conditions.

• Prominent products

  • Bioassance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum

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CBD oil – CBD, short for cannabidiol, is a compound found in the cannabis plant (read our blog post about it to learn more!). The research on its potential benefits is still in its infancy, but it seems to have anti-inflammatory effects and may be effective against certain types of dermatitis.

• Prominent products

  • Kiehl’s Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Herbal Concentrate

  • Herbivore EMERALD Deep Moisture Glow Oil

Peptides – When amino acids link together, the chain they form is called an amino peptide. The most well known peptide in skincare is collagen, the protein that keeps your skin smooth and firm. As we age, the skin loses collagen which in turn contributes to wrinkles and sagging. Applying topical peptides may boost your skin’s natural production of peptides like collagen.

• Prominent products

  • Youth to the People Superfood Peptide Eye Cream

Squalane and squalene – Squalane and squalene are naturally occurring emollients and moisturizers that are produced in our skin. In skincare products, their moisturizing properties mimic those of our skin’s natural moisture and they can smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and keep oily skin from looking overly greasy.

• Prominent products

  • Biossance 100% Squalane Oil

Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid) – Ascorbic acid, or vitamin C, is an antioxidant which, when manufactured into a stable topical formulation, is proven to be effective in protecting against photoaging of the skin. It is available in serums, liquids, creams, and even powder. It is important to note that if the vitamin C is not stable, it will oxidize in solution and may contribute to blackheads.

• Prominent products

  • Sunday Riley C.E.O. Glow

These products are fun and at Apostrophe we love trying new things as much as the next skincare addict, but we should all be careful about falling into marketing traps. Potency plays a big role in the effectiveness of ingredients and a lot of products are not tested to prove that they can deliver the results they claim. Make sure you do your research before dropping the big bucks!

1. Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, et al. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2002;24(5):303-310. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x. Accessed May 16, 2019. 2. Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2014;36(3):221-230. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/ics.12117. Accessed May 16, 2019. 3. Chaudhuri RK, Marchio F. Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skin. Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine. 2011;126(7):502-510. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/284931325_Bakuchiol_in_the_management_of_acne-affected_Skin. Accessed May 16, 2019. 4. Karsak M, Gaffal E, Date R, et al. Attenuation of allergic contact dermatitis through the endocannabinoid system. Science. 2007;316(5830):1494-1497. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17556587. Accessed May 10, 2019. 5. Khushboo PS, Jadhav VM, Kadam VJ, Sathe NS. Psoralea corylifolia Linn.—“Kushtanashini.” Pharmacognosy Review. 2010;4(7):69-76. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3249905/. 6. Lebsack L. What's Squalene and Why Should You Care? Byrdie. https://www.byrdie.com/best-products-squalane-squalene-difference-dry-skin-2014. Published April 15, 2019. Accessed May 16, 2019. 7. Oláh A, Tóth BI, Borbíró I, et al. Cannabidiol exerts sebostatic and antiinflammatory effects on human sebocytes. Journal of Clinical Investigation. 2014;124(9):3713-3724. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25061872. Accessed May 16, 2019. 8. Peptides for Skin: What are Peptides & How They Help with Skincare. Colorescience Learn. https://www.colorescience.com/learn/peptides-for-skin#peptides-overview. Accessed May 16, 2019. 9. Stone MJ. Does Argireline Work? We Asked Skin Experts About This 'Botox in a Jar'. Zwivel. https://www.zwivel.com/blog/argireline-review/. Published January 10, 2019. Accessed May 16, 2019. 10. Topical vitamin C. Topical vitamin C | DermNet NZ. https://www.dermnetnz.org/topics/topical-vitamin-c/. Accessed May 16, 2019.