Oils 101

2022-11-22T19:19:24.337Z

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Slather - Oils 101

A blog article written for Slather, Apostrophe's blog, entitled Oils 101

Aimee Paik, MDDoctorateDegreeAmerican Board of DermatologyBoard Certified DermatologistChief Medical OfficerDermatologist100A dermatologist is a doctor who specializes in conditions involving the skin, hair, and nails. A dermatologist can identify and treat more than 3,000 conditions. These conditions include eczema, psoriasis, and skin cancer, among many others.
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2022-11-22T19:19:24.337Z
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General

Oils 101

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General

Oils 101

Medically reviewed by Aimee Paik, MD

Written by Apostrophe Team

Last updated 11/2/2022

Lipids are a large and diverse group of organic compounds that include oils, fats, and hormones. Oils specifically are liquid at room temperature and hydrophobic – they cannot dissolve in water but they can dissolve each other. This makes them ideal for cleansing and removing makeup, as well as locking moisture into the skin. Many are also effective for maintaining hydration and reducing inflammation.

Argan oil – Argan oil is pressed from the kernels of the argan tree (Argania spinosa). It works as a moisturizer and emollient and has been shown to increase skin elasticity when applied topically. A 2013 study also showed the protective effect it can have against damage when applied after coloring the hair.

CBD oil – CBD, short for cannabidiol, is a compound found in the cannabis plant (read our blog post about it to learn more!). The research on its potential benefits is still in its infancy, but it seems to have anti-inflammatory effects and may be effective against certain types of dermatitis.


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Marula oil – Marula oil comes from the marula fruit tree (Sclerocarya birrea) which is native to parts of Southern Africa. Packed with amino acids (L-arginine and glutamic acid), fatty acids, and antioxidants (phenolic compounds and vitamins E and C), this oil has hydrating, moisturizing, and anti-aging properties. It is also non-comedogenic which makes it a good option for those with acne-prone skin.

Rosehip oil – Rosehip oil, or rosehip seed oil, comes from the Rosa canina rose bush. It is rich in vitamins and essential fatty acids, including linoleic and linolenic fatty acids. These nourishing elements make it good for moisturizing and hydrating the skin while vitamins A, E, and C aid in reducing inflammation and brightening the skin. A 2015 study using rosehip powder also showed significant anti-aging benefits to rosehip, including improvements to skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity.

Tea tree oil – Tea tree oil comes from the leaves of Melaleuca alternifolia, a tree native to Australia. It’s benefits primarily come from its antimicrobial properties and it has been shown in study after study to be effective against mild to moderate acne. It is important to note that tea tree oil acts differently on the skin than most other oils named in this resource. Pure tea tree oil should not be applied directly on the skin. Tea tree’s powerful antimicrobial effects can cause drying and irritating effects, especially on sensitive skin, so it is best to do a patch test before using.

Oils are a luxurious way to protect and hydrate your skin, as well as to treat yourself to a little bit of glow. Finding your holy grail oil may take some trial and error, so go slow and take your time with testing. When you find the one, you’ll know.

1. Bassett IB, Panowitz DL, Barnetson RS. A comparative study of tea-tree oil versus benzoylperoxide in the treatment of acne. The Medical Journal of Australia. 1990;153(8):455-458. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2145499. Accessed May 10, 2019. 2. Bensouda Y, Boucetta KQ, Charrouf Z, Aguenaou H, Derouiche A. The effect of dietary and/or cosmetic argan oil on postmenopausal skin elasticity. Clinical Interventions in Aging. January 2015:339-349. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4321565/. Accessed May 10, 2019. 3. Carson CF, Hammer KA, Riley TV. Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) Oil: a Review of Antimicrobial and Other Medicinal Properties. Clinical Microbiology Reviews. 2006;19(1):50-62. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1360273/. Accessed May 10, 2019. 4. Faria PM, Camargo LN, Carvalho RSH, Paludetti LA, Velasco MVR, da Gama RM. Hair protective effect of Argan oil (Argania spinosa kernel oil) and Cupuassu butter (Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter) post treatment with hair dye. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Application. January 2013:40-44. https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Robson_Gama/publication/273687487_Hair_Protective_Effect_of_Argan_Oil_Argania_spinosa_Kernel_Oil_and_Cupuassu_Butter_Theobroma_grandiflorum_Seed_Butter_Post_Treatment_with_Hair_Dye/links/5576ff8808aeacff20004304.pdf. Accessed May 10, 2019. 5. Guillaume D, Charrouf Z. Argan oil and other argan products: Use in dermocosmetology. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology. 2011;113(4):403-408. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/ejlt.201000417. Accessed May 10, 2019. 6. Jay K. 9 Ways to Use Rosehip Oil for Your Face. Healthline. https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/rosehip-oil-for-face#hydrating. Published January 23, 2018. Accessed May 10, 2019. 7. Jooya A, Siadat A, Iraji F, Enshaieh S. The efficacy of 5% topical tea tree oil gel in mild to moderate acne vulgaris: A randomized, double-blind placebo-controlled study. Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology. 2007;73(1):22-25. http://www.ijdvl.com/article.asp?issn=0378-6323;year=2007;volume=73;issue=1;spage=22;epage=25;aulast=Enshaieh. Accessed May 10, 2019. 8. Karsak M, Gaffal E, Date R, et al. Attenuation of allergic contact dermatitis through the endocannabinoid system. Science. 2007;316(5830):1494-1497. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17556587. Accessed May 10, 2019. 9. Komane B, Vermaak I, Summers B, Viljoen A. Safety and efficacy of Sclerocarya birrea (A.Rich.) Hochst (Marula) oil: A clinical perspective. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. 2015;176:327-335. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26528587. Accessed May 10, 2019. 10. Oil. Dictionary.com. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/oil. Accessed May 10, 2019. 11. Oláh A, Tóth BI, Borbíró I, et al. Cannabidiol exerts sebostatic and antiinflammatory effects on human sebocytes. Journal of Clinical Investigation. 2014;124(9):3713-3724. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25061872. Accessed May 10, 2019. 12. Thompson TE. Lipid. Encyclopædia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/science/lipid/Substituent-groups. Published October 12, 2018. Accessed May 10, 2019. 13. Weatherford A. Everything You Need to Know About Putting Oils on Your Face. The Cut. https://www.thecut.com/2016/01/a-beginners-guide-to-beauty-oils.html. Published July 12, 2018. Accessed May 10, 2019. 14. Whelan C. What You Need to Know About Marula Oil. Healthline. https://www.healthline.com/health/marula-oil-benefits#Marula-oil-benefits. Published December 18, 2018. Accessed May 10, 2019. 15. Winther K, Wongsuphasawat K, Phetcharat L. The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity. Clinical Interventions in Aging. 2015;10:1849-1856. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4655903/. Accessed May 10, 2019.

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